Call 1.800.795.6958 or  email John Abbott with your technical questions

Eezibleed

$39.95

Still the best value for your money!

If penicillin is the wonder drug, then your eezibleed is the wonder tool.
I've used it over the weekend and it works as expected.

Thanks very much

Regards,
E. M. Hipolito
San Leandro, CA

Multipurpose cap for Japanese and American cars with round reservoir opening that's less than 2 5/8 inches outside diameter.

Brake Fluid Savvy

Why should you change your car's brake fluid car when conventional wisdom says that brake fluid, like transmission fluid and rear end lube, lasts the life of the car. Most people drive their cars into oblivion without changing any fluids except oil. Car enthusiasts, however, know better. They change fluids according to the recommendation of the vehicle manufacturer (or even sooner) because they want to prevent problems and keep their cars operating at peak efficiency. Many manufacturers recommend yearly brake fluid change-out. Here's why:

Brake fluid absorbs water.  Water contaminated brake fluid has a negative impact on brake system properties and consequently affects brake system performance and longevity. Critical brake fluid properites such as boiling point, viscosity, and resistance to corrosion are degraded by water contaminated fluid.

· Water lowers the fluid's boiling point. The more water absorbed the greater the possibility of boiling the fluid. When brake fluid boils, small bubbles form that collect and get trapped. These bubbles are gaseous and can be compressed resulting in a spongy brake pedal or vapor lock.

· Water changes the viscosity of brake fluid by thickening it. Thicker brake fluid affects winter braking performance because it flows more slowly in cold temperatures.

· Water causes corrosion that destroys costly brake system  components, such as master cylinders, calipers, and  wheel cylinders.

The DOT specification for brake system performance rates brake fluid on its ability to withstand boiling. Federal standard 116 specifies two boiling points: the dry boiling point and the wet boiling point. The dry boiling point refers to fluid straight from a sealed container. While the wet boiling point refers to fluid exposed to moisture under specific test conditions. For example, DOT 3 fluid has a dry boiling point of 401° F and a wet boiling point of 284° F. DOT 4 fluid has a dry boiling point of 446° F and a wet boiling point of 311° F.

Fresh DOT 4 brake fluid can boil at 446° F and water, of course, boils at 212° F. Brake fluid mixed with water boils somewhere between. The wet boiling point is a function of the fluid's chemical composition, time, and atmospheric conditions. In a warm humid climate brake fluid can be ruined in less than 120 days. When the water content is only 5%, the boiling point is reduced by as much as 50%. To prevent fluid fron boiling the wet boiling point must be higher than the brake temperature expected under the most severe operating conditions.

Manufacturers recommend regular brake fluid renewal because fresh fluid keeps the hydraulic system in top operating condition and decreases the chance of component failure caused by corrosion. Now that you know why brake fluid should be renewed the next thing to learn is how to do it quickly and easily with no mess or fuss.

There are several methods of brake bleeding: manual bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and pressure bleeding. Manual bleeding is probably the method most do-it-yourselfers use because its the cheapest (you don't need a special tool) but its a hassle because you need a helper. You must synchronize your actions to ensure that no air or contaminated fluid gets sucked into the system when you release the brake pedal, and you must keep the reservoir topped up.

A one way valve eliminates the helper and is useful for bleeding brakes but it is excruciatingly slow if you are renewing the fluid, and you still have to watch the fluid level in the reservoir. Manual bleeding can cause problems because it forces fluid out by pushing the brake pedal to the floor which may damage the internal seals when the master cylinder piston is forced into the unpolished part of its bore.

Vacuum bleeding is less hassle than manual bleeding but again the reservoir must be topped up, and according to HP Books, Brake Handbook, vacuum bleeding may draw air into the system past the cup seals, if the system doesn't have cup expanders. Vacuum bleeding does not provide sufficient turbulence to flush out pesky air bubbles that cling to rough walls. A vacuum bleeder costs about $46 and can be used on all cars.

Pressure bleeding

Fresh brake fluid is essential for proper hydraulic system operation and the personal pressure bleeder offers a cost effective solution. For your safety check the brake fluid regularly and keep it topped up. Change the brake fluid according to the recommendation of the vehicle manufacturer because the performance characteristics of brake fluid, boiling point, viscosity, and corrosion resistance degrade over time and with exposure.

Follow this advice for a trouble free hydraulic system:

· use high quality brake fluid that exceeds DOT 4 standards,
· consider LMA (low moisture activity) fluids if you live in a humid area,
· never mix brake fluid brands,
· don't store brake fluid for long periods,
· never reuse drained brake fluid,
· pressure bleed to flush the old fluid and ensure that no air or contaminates remain.

Prices subject to change without notice

Copyright 2007 by Auto Expert Products Inc. John Abbott
Headquarters: 2574 nw 29th Drive, Boca Raton FL 33434
1 800 795-6958

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