Tips and Useful Information

You can wash Eezibleed with water but please don’t use Eezibleed unless it’s DRY. Water is the reason you are changing the fluid so don’t add water accidentally.  Allow at least one week to completely air dry, especially if water entered the plastic tubes.

Porsche owners: Your Porsche’s brake reservoir may have an over flow tube. If so the overflow tube must be closed off before pressurizing the hydraulic system; otherwise the new fluid will spill onto the ground. Either plug the end of the overflow tube or remove the tube from the reservoir and cap the reservoir nipple using plastic tubing with a screw in the end.

To avoid any risk of spilled brake fluid wrap the reservoir cap with a rag. If brake fluid spills, flush immediately with water. While brake fluid can ruin paint it does not ruin paint on contact.

Mercedes owners: An early '80s Mercedes owner reported that the two flu-id level sensors lo-cat-ed on the reservoir popped up after pressurizing the reservoir. He felt that the rubber around the sensors had deteriorated and that this was an exceptional case. This is the only reported incident out of several hundred Mercedes owners who purchased Eezibleed.

The plastic 44mm cap fits most European cars such as Porsche, BMW, Audi, VW (Rabbit), Saab, Fiat, Mercedes, Volvo, etc., with ATE master cylinder reservoir. The 27mm metal cap fits Bugs, and its derivatives, Ghia, Microbus, Transporter, etc.

This section should not apply to German cars, but it does provide useful information if you want to use Eezibleed on your American or Japanese car(s). If no cap fits a particular round reservoir opening, several options are possible: adapting the existing cap, purchasing the optional multi purpose cap, or purchasing an adapter from NAPA, Snap-on, K-D Tools, etc., and mating it to Eezibleed. Information on adapting the existing cap is given in the Eezibleed instructions. I recommend that you buy a used cap from a salvage yard and not fiddle with the existing cap. CAUTION: Don't drill through a cap that has a diaphragm, as found on Bendix and Delco Moraine caps; buy an adapter. Plastic GM reservoirs with a snap on cap need a special adapter  made by K-D Tools, Snap-on Tools, etc. This special adapter is over $30..

The multi purpose cap fits round reservoir openings up to 67 mm or 2 5/8". It can be used on any car that has a twist on or snap on round reservoir opening. Special straps secure the multi purpose cap to the reservoir. The reservoir should be shaped so that the straps can fit around it. If the reservoir is six inches wide on each side of the opening, the multi purpose cap probably won't fit properly.

To make the job as easy as possible I've seated the gasket in the cap that fits your reservoir and connected the cap to the plastic hose. Once the tire connection is made and the system is pressurized you should hear no hissing sounds.

To be certain that the set up works for you, test for leaks before filling the plastic bottle with brake fluid. Attach the cap to the reservoir and pressurize the system.

If you hear hissing sounds, check for the source(s). Leaks can occur in the reservoir cap, the bottle cap, or the tire chuck.

Reservoir cap leaking:

1. Tighten the reservoir cap.

2. Look through the top of the cap (opaque caps only) to see if the gasket is seated all the way around. If the gasket is not seated, then remove the cap and try to re-seat the gasket. Make sure the outer edge of the gasket is under the cap threads. Since the fit is not perfect the gasket will bow. Al-low, the gasket to bow from the inner edge not the outer edge. If re-seating the gasket fails, trim the gasket so it lays flat in the cap. Remove just a small amount of rubber (1mm) from the outer edge.

Bottle cap leaking:

3. Tighten it, but don't over-tighten. Over-tightening might ruin the gasket.

Tire chuck:

4. The tire chuck should not leak. A small percentage (1%) do. If air is leaking from the tire chuck and you're inconvenienced by it, call me on my toll free number and ask for a replacement, free. A leaky tire chuck will won’t stop you from pressurizing the brake system but you will lose more air from the air source than would normally   be the case.

People sometimes ask what happens to the air in the reservoir after the hydraulic system is pressurized. Upon pressurizing the hydraulic system the air that was in the reservoir remains there. It is not pushed out into the lines. If you look closely you will see a bubble at the top of the reservoir. This bubble stays there throughout the bleeding operation.

The Eezibleed instructions recommend a pressure of 20 psi.  Since tires are typically inflated to 36 psi, you'll need an alternate air supply. Use the spare tire deflated to 20 psi. Don't deflate the front tire.  The air source should be ambient temperature to avoid condensation. Never use a tire that is hot from being operated. Racers please take note.

When you disconnect the air supply, fluid will be drawn back into the bottle allowing you to remove the cap without worrying about fluid spilling. The air bubble that was in the reservoir keeps the fluid just below the reservoir's neck.

After disconnecting Eezibleed the reservoir may be over the full mark. To bring the level down, purchase a cheap basting tool and draw off the excess fluid or crack a bleeder after disconnecting Eezibleed to drain off some fluid.

The plastic hoses will cloud from prolonged contact with brake fluid, but this is merely cosmetic. I recommend that you empty the pressure bottle for storage. You can wash the pressure bottle, gaskets, and cap with water, but don't use soap. Let them air dry. After drying, put Eezibleed in a plastic zip lock bag to keep it clean.

Fluid flow is controlled by how much the bleeder screw is opened and the pressure applied. Open the bleeder screw slowly until a smooth steady stream occurs. The action is similar to turning on a faucet. Fluid flows more slowly from the rear lines than the front. The flow rate in the rear is about the same as if a helper was pumping the brake pedal. Don't be concerned, it's normal. The flow rate in the front is stronger but not so strong that it causes splashing or splattering; it is still easily controlled. You can experiment with greater air pressure so that the fluid flow in the rear lines is faster. About 25 psi seems to be the limit.

Drain the old brake fluid into a plastic/glass jar and dispose of it properly according to local environmental regulations. Please don't pollute.

My 1982 733i has a strainer in the brake reservoir that hinders fluid flow. Strainers typically have screened cutouts to let flu-id pass through but mine had two tiny holes. Before connecting the Eezibleed cap remove the strainer and remember to put it back after disconnecting Eezibleed.

Some owners report that the Eezibleed bottle gasket is affected by racing brake fluid. If you experience any gasket deterioration from any type of brake fluid please call and I’ll provide new gaskets, free of charge.

If no fluid is flowing from a brake line try another line. No fluid flow can be caused by a blockage in the brake line. Loosening stuck nipples with vice grips or pliers can cause the nipple to break off. The fix is a new caliper! Ouch. Better to leave the old fluid in the line than break off the nipple.

Eezibleed is not a perfect tool but it does make an annoying, but necessary job, acceptable. If you're experienced at brake bleeding you'll see the advantages immediately. If you've never changed fluid before the job rather than the tool might turn you off. Feed-back means a lot. Let me know how you make out.

14. Guaranteed for life,

15. Foolproof, and easy to use,

16. 30 day 'NO HASSLE' money back guarantee,

17. Made of durable long lasting plastic that is unaffected by brake fluid,

18. Compact and completely portable, take it to the track,

19. Can be mated to brake reservoir adapters from K-D Tools, NAPA, etc. for cars with snap on or bayonet caps,

20. Cleans up with water.